نقش رنگ سیاه و سفید در طراحی لباس فیلم مبتنی بر نشانه شناسی رولان بارت ( مطالعه موردی: 2 فیلم سینمایی آناکارنینا و بانوی زیبای من) (مقاله علمی وزارت علوم)
درجه علمی: نشریه علمی (وزارت علوم)
آرشیو
چکیده
نظام پوشاک که به عنوان یکی از عناصر نشانه ای توسط یکی از مهم ترین نظریه پردازان دانش نشانه شناسی رولان بارت (1980-1915) مطرح شد، رویکردی به اهمیت اجزای لباس در نشان دادن حالات و روحیات انسان هاست. این نظام به عنوان زبان تصویری در بیان شخصیت پردازی به ویژه در آثار سینمایی دارای کارکردی ویژه است. در این پژوهش، دو فیلم سینمایی با عناوین: آناکارنیناو بانوی زیبای من، با هدف بیان نقش نظام پوشاک به عنوان عنصر نشانه ای از منظر رولان بارت، مورد بررسی و تحلیل قرار گرفته است. این تحقیق با توجه به نقش و اهمیت رنگ در شخصیت پردازی لباس آثار سینمایی؛ سعی داشته به تاثیر گذاری رنگ لباس بازیگران در بیان احساسات و تضاد شخصیتی آنان بپردازد. هدف پژوهش، صرفاً بررسی 2عنصر سیاه و سفید است که بیانگر تضاد شخصیتی کامل هستند و نوع ژانر و یا اهداف دیگری در انتخاب فیلم ها دخیل نبوده است. نتایج به دست آمده نشانگر آنست که سیاهی و سفیدی، نقش قابل توجهی در بیان احساس و رفتار بازیگران داشته و همسو با متن داستان و بازی بازیگران قرار گرفته است. این پژوهش از نظر ماهیت کاربردی و از نظر روش توصیفی- تحلیلی است. گردآوری داده ها با استفاده از اسناد و منابع کتابخانه ای انجام شده است.The function of the black and white color in costume designing, based on Roland Barthes Semiotic theory (Case Study: Anna Karenina, My fair lady)
The clothing system as a semiotic structure, was developed by one of the most important theorists of semiotics; Roland Barthes (1915-1980) who discussed the importance of the components of the clothes to imply human moods and spirits. This system as a visual language in expressing the characterization especially in cinema has a distinct function. Most of the works of Barthes are in the field of semiotics, based on the functional symptoms; Barthes in one of his very famous and important theories, the theory of language system in accordance with its sub-theory, known as cloths system focuses on the rules of clothes which create continuity in component and also important counts. Barthes defines sociological and cultural perspectives such as the clothing system, food system, car system and housework system using the language / speech opposition. Since language is a social and also value institution that is by no means an act and cannot be created, and conversely, speech is basically an individual act related to the choice and thought of an individual subject.
In the present study, two moving pictures, Anna Karenina and My Fair Lady will be investigated based on Roland Barthes thesis to show that the films’ clothing system functions as a sign system. Also the purpose of the selection of these two films in the research is to identify and compare the relationship between the colors, black and white in costume design of the actors and their personality contradictions as well as the analysis of their clothing in opposition to each other. Both films are adaptations of famous novels and are the narrating the main character as a woman who’s social and cultural conditions have influenced her feelings and attitudes. Through creation of influential costumes, colors of the actor’s costumes are in a significant correlation with other semiotic layers. The aim of selecting movies for comparative analyses in this research is identifying and comparing the conflicting relationship between two important actors and analysis of color of their clothing contrasting each other. Here the references of color languages as a language system play the vital roles. Since the meaning of each color is very wide and is beyond the scope of this article, only two black and white elements representing a complete personality conflict are discussed here. Also, the selection of films was solely due to the role of the elements, so the type of genre or other goals are not involved in the selection of works.
This research attempts to illustrate and express the influence of color in designing costumes for the actors. An analysis of its visual impact on the viewer will be discussed. In the present study, signification of cloths are considered a cultural sub-code and the research is based on semiotics as its theoretical framework. The data collection is documental and its method is based on observation cards filled through various scenes captured from the films and examining the black and white elements in the actors' clothes. This research is an applied research, and the research plan is descriptive- analytical.
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