پیش دامن (پیش بند) اصناف دوره گرد عصر ناصری بر پایه مرقعات اصناف در کاخ گلستان و موزه بریتانیا (مقاله علمی وزارت علوم)
درجه علمی: نشریه علمی (وزارت علوم)
آرشیو
چکیده
در اهم پژوهش های پوشاک دوره قاجار، بر اجزای تقریباً ثابت دربین تمام اقشار جامعه تأکید می شود و ذکر برخی جزییات پوششی متناسب با مشاغل یا موقعیت اجتماعی مغفول می ماند. بررسی پارچه کاربردی در پیش دامن (پیش بند) مصور در پوشش دستفروشان دوره گرد، در دو نسخه از مرقعات صنفی عصر ناصرالدین شاه قاجار، محل تمرکز پژوهش حاضر است. نسخه اول، در کاخ موزه گلستان نگهداری می شود و نسخه دوم محفوظ در موزه بریتانیاست و براساس ویژگی های سبک شناسی احتمالاً هر دو اثر در زمانی نزدیک به یکدیگر رقم خورده اند بنابراین پرسش مقاله حاضر، آن است: بر اساس دو نسخه از مرقعات صنفی عهد ناصری، کدام جزء از پوشش دستفروشان دوره گرد، افزون بر موارد متعارف در پوشاک مردانه بوده و پارچه کاربردی در این مصرف، با چه طرح و نقشی تولید می شده است؟ مطالعه پیش رو با رویکرد تاریخی، به شیوه توصیفی تحلیلی و نمونه گیری هدفمند ده تصویر شکل گرفت و نتیجه نشان داد: پیش دامن، عنصر افزونِ پوشاک اصناف دوره گرد قاجاری است که برخی از ایشان از آن بهره می گرفتند. پارچه محرمات به عنوان یکی از انواع منسوجات نسبتاً ارزان، نمونه پرکاربرد در این مصرف است. البته این منسوج در انواع گرانبها نیز تولید می شده که به تبع در پوشش دوره گردان استفاده نداشته است. می توان پارچه مصرفی ایشان را نظیر انواعی ارزیابی کرد که امروزه تحت عنوان دستمال یزدی شناسایی می شوند.Waist Aprons of Peddlers in the Naser al-Din Shah Qajar Era Based on the Scrapbooks of Professions in Golestan Palace and the British Museum
The majority of research on Qajar clothing is centered on the garments common among people from all walks of life, neglecting those specific to particular trades or social classes. This study focuses on the type of fabric used for the waist aprons worn by Qajar - era peddlers, as depicted in two Scrapbook of Professions manuscripts from the reign of Naser al - Din Shah Qajar. In analyzing the fabric’s design and production method, the study also fulfills a secondary objective, namely exploring the two manuscripts. One book is kept in Golestan Palace in Tehran and the other in the British Museum, and given their stylistic similarities, they appear to have been created around the same time. The first manuscript has 32 pages of watercolor paintings of different occupations and different clothes of the Qajar era. This scrapbook has recorded scenes from the daily life of ordinary people and is therefore sociologically significant. The second version of scrapbook is similar to the style of the previous one, howewer with half of its dimensions. In any case, this manuscript apparently has about 28 paintings. The research questions are: Based on the Naserian-era Scrapbook of Professions manuscripts, what items of clothing did male peddlers wear in addition to the clothing worn commonly by men? And how were these additional items decorated? Conducted as qualitative, historical, and descriptive - analytical research, the study reviewed the manuscripts and selected ten illustrated men in waist aprons. The analysis of these artworks showed that waist aprons were part of peddlers’ professional outfits in Qajar Iran and that the peddlers who wore waist aprons included those who sold boiled beets, boiled broad beans, beef tripe, black mulberry, faience, barberry juice, the kashk-doogh beverage, secondhand clothes, and bread. Of the selected ten men, nine wore waist aprons made of a type of patterned fabric known as moharramāt (Striped), and only one — depicted in the Golestan Palace manuscript as Ustād Reza Peenedooz (Master Reza the Cobbler) — wore a plain waist apron. Looking at the manuscripts, moharramat fabric seems to have been among the most popular fabrics for men’s waist aprons in Qajar Iran. It also varied in quality and production method: some varieties had patterns woven into them, whereas others had decorations added on top using techniques such as embroidery. Striped embroidered varieties were more expensive and mostly used in the early Qajar era for women’s pants. Floral-patterned varieties with often-thin stripes were popular for women’s shirts and male servants’ qaba coats, as well as in the form of waist sashes, linings, and hem decorations for upper - class men. As suggested by the illustrations, the moharramat used for peddlers’ waist aprons was of a very cheap variety, appropriate for peddlers’ occupations and economic class and for an apron’s purpose, namely protecting the clothing worn under it. This variety was made of cotton and probably resembled the type of traditional handkerchief known today as the dastmāl- e Yazdi (Yazdi handkerchief).
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