بررسی روند و چگونگی تغییر سبک پوشش مردان جامعه شهری ایران در دوره قاجاریه (مقاله علمی وزارت علوم)
درجه علمی: نشریه علمی (وزارت علوم)
آرشیو
چکیده
سبک پوشش ایرانیان از اولین موضوعاتی بود که در پی افزایش ارتباطات با غرب از اوایل دوره قاجاریه به چالش کشیده شد و همزمان با تغییر و تحولاتی که در عرصه های مختلف سبک زندگی ایرانیان از این دوره صورت گرفت، به تدریج تغییر کرد. مسئله اصلی پژوهش حاضر بررسیِ روند و چگونگی تغییر سبک پوشش مردان با تأکید بر شهر تهران در دوره قاجاریه است. سوال اصلی پژوهش عبارت است از اینکه تغییر سبک پوشش مردان در دوره قاجاریه چه روندی را طی کرد و کدام قشرهای جامعه را شامل شد؟ هدف تحقیق، کمک به روشن شدن بخشی از تاریخ تحولات اجتماعی- فرهنگی دوره قاجاریه و نحوه برخورد با غرب و مسئله تجدد است. پژوهش حاضر به روش تاریخی و با رویکرد توصیفی-تحلیلی صورت گرفت و نتیجه آن نشان داد با واردات روزافزون پارچه های تولید غرب از اوایل دوره قاجاریه تغییراتی در جنس، طرح و رنگ لباس ایرانیان صورت گرفت. همزمان، با گسترش روزافزون ارتباطات با غرب و آشنایی با فرهنگ و تمدن غربی، سبک پوشش غربی پوشش سنتی ایران را به چالش کشید و به عنوان بدیلی برای آن مطرح شد. ابتدا سبک پوشش نظامیان و بعد از آن درباریان، به صورت دستوری و از بالا و با توجیه غیرکاربردی بودن تغییر کرد. سپس با حاکم شدن تدریجی غرب گرایی و تجددطلبی بر فضای فکری و فرهنگی جامعه و شکل گیری نهادهای اداری، آموزشی مدرن و طبقه متوسط جدید، تغییر در سبک لباس به تدریج عمومیت یافت، به طوری که تا پایان دوره قاجاریه سبک پوشش اغلب مردان تهرانی از اقشار مختلف به سبک غربی و نیمه غربی تبدیل شد.Investigating the Process of Changing in Men's Clothing Styles during the Qajar Era
Introduction: Iranian clothing style was one of the first issues that changed gradually following the increase of communication with west countries since the early Qajar period, along with the changes and developments that took place in various areas of the Iranian lifestyle in this era.Problem definition: The main issue of this study is to investigate the process of changing in Men’s Clothing styles with emphasis on the city of Tehran during the Qajar period. The main question of this research is how was the process of changing of men’s clothing styles in the Qajar period and which segments of society were included?Objective: The purpose of this research is to help clarifying some part of the history of socio- cultural developments in the Qajar era and the how Iranians dealt with the West and the issue of modernization. The changes in clothing styles were only one of the aspects of the comprehensive changes that Iranian society encountered with it in the Qajar period. Clarifying the dimensions of the process, and the ways of changing in the lifestyle of Iranians, including in men’s clothing styles, can provide the basis for achieving a scientific theory regarding how Iranians encountered to West and the issue of modernization in Iran.Method: This present study is conducted with the historical method and by using a descriptive-analytical approach.Results: The results of the research showed that with the increasing imports of Western- made fabrics since the beginning of the Qajar period, changes have been occurred in the material, design, and color of Iranian clothes. At the same time, with the increasing expansion of communication with the West and familiarity with Western culture and civilization, the Western clothing style proposed as an alternative to the Iranian clothing style and challenged traditional clothing. First, the clothing styles of the military and then the courtiers changed by order and with the justification of being impractical. Then, with the gradual dominance of Westernization and modernism on the intellectual and cultural atmosphere of the society and the formation of modern administrative and educational institutions and the new middle class, the change in the clothing style gradually became common, so that by the end of the Qajar period, the clothing style of most men in Tehran from different classes turned into a Western and semi-Western style.In addition to the direct and commanding role of politicians, the new environmental and work conditions and requirements and the intellectual-cultural atmosphere prevailing in that period were also effective in changing the clothing styles. Political, social, and cultural elites, whether as policymakers in the field of culture and clothing or as pioneers in the use of Western-style clothing, played an important role in this field. They were considered as a model for others due to their cultural, social, and political status. In the new intellectual-cultural atmosphere that gradually emerged, traditional clothing represented backwardness and uncivilization, and Western-style clothing became associated with progress and civilization. Although Western clothing was considered simpler, more economical, and in some cases more practical, the replacement of the traditional clothing styles with the Western styles was partly the result of Iranians’ fascination with the manifestations of Western civilization and a sense of self-defeat in the face of it.
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