گفتمانِ موکبانگ-کوکبانگ در جریان خلق تا هم آفرینی ارزشِ برندهای خوراکِ ایرانی (مقاله علمی وزارت علوم)
درجه علمی: نشریه علمی (وزارت علوم)
آرشیو
چکیده
گفتمان موکبانک، گونه ای از همگرایی برخط است که نمایانگر آماده سازی خوراک (کوکبانگ) یا خوردن خوراک (موکبانگ) به وسیله تأثیرگذار در جلوی دید کاربران است. این جریان به عنوان ابزاری برای ترویج غذاهای کره ای و بخشی حیاتی از هالیوا یا موج کره ای شناخته شده که در ایران و در جریان تعاملی غیرمستقیم و با واسطه تأثیرگذار با کاربران شبکه اجتماعی به شکل ویژه ای بازبافت سازی شده است. بی گمان، واکاوی ابعاد نهفته معناپردازِ موکبانگ در ایران، به کشف و شناسایی لایه های گفتمانی پنهان جریان هالیوا در پیوند با ارزش برندهای خوراک ایرانی منجر می شود که در این پژوهش برآنیم با رویکردی تفسیری و با ماهیتی چندروشی به آن بپردازیم. پیکره مورد بررسی، مشتمل بر موکبانگ هایی است که به روش هدفمند و با در نظر گرفتن ویژگی های معناپرداز رمزگان خوراک در گفتمان موکبانگ-کوکبانگ انتخاب شده اند. یافته های پژوهش با تحلیل پیکره پژوهش به روش تلفیقی نشان داد که رمزگان فرهنگی خوراک در گفتمان موکبانگ-کوکبانگ ایرانی، شکل ویژه ای در بازنمایی ارزش برندهای خوراک- در زمینه نوع خوراک، شیوه خوردن و آماده سازی خوراک- دارد: در پیوند با نوع خوراک، گفتمان تعاملی موکبانگ بومی ایرانی، خوردن برخی از خوراکی های غیربومی، همچون اختاپوس، هشت پا و کالاماری، را شامل می شود. در جریان بیناکنش مکتوب دنبال کننده ها، برخی با تضعیف سازه های فرهنگی بومی و تقویت عناصر موج جهانی هالیوا، افراد را به سوی پذیرش این جریان در میان کاربران ایرانی ترغیب کرده و برخی با ارجاع به مفهوم سنت از پذیرش آن پرهیز کرده اند. در گفتمان موکبانگ، شیوه خوردن اغلب با صدای تقویت شده به تحریک حسی کاربران پرداخته که با تکیه بر چالش های پرخوری و تندخوری- به صورت تک نفره یا دونفره- انجام می شود. گفتمان کوکبانگ ایرانی، به بازنمایی روش آماده سازی خوراک های روش های گوناگونی همچون آماده سازی خوراک های ملل به ویژه آسیای شرقی با ارجاع به منشأ آن، روش پختن فست فودهای مدرن همسو با جریان های جهانی مک دونالدسازی، بازبافت سازی خوراک های ایرانی سنتی با تکیه بر روایت های تاریخی و موارد مشابه می پردازد.On the semiotics of Iranian Muckbang-cookbang discourse: from creation to co-creation of brand values
The Muckbang discourse, as digital commensality, depicts the preparation of food (Cookbang) or eating food (Muckbang) by an influencer in the presence of other users. This trend is considered as a tool for spreading Korean food tradition as an essential part of the Hallyu or "Korean wave." Through indirect means as well as the interaction of influencers with social network users, the Korean wave of Hallyu has been recontextualized in Iran in its own particular way. In this connection, as it concerns Iranian brand values, discovering the implicit levels of meaning-making in Muckbang or the Korean wave of Hallyu in Iran requires adopting and applying an interpretive multidisciplinary approach. The research corpus consists of all Muckbang-cookbangs that were purposefully selected by considering the meaning-making mechanisms of food culture system. Employing an integrated model for data analyses, the results indicated that the cultural codes of food in Iranian Muckbang-cookbang discourse represents the value of food brands through and in terms of the type of food, the style of eating and preparing. The results suggest that concerning food type, the Muckbang discourse of native Iranians particularly includes the consumption of unpleasant food, flavor-enhanced food, and crunchy and fresh food. Besides, Iranian Muckbang discourse also includes the consumption of some non-native foods such as squid, crabs, and calamari. The examination of written interactions revealed that some users and followers encouraged other users to accept the Hallyu wave by weakening the local cultural structures and enriching the elements of the global Hallyu wave. This is while another group of users avoided accepting this trend by maintaining and preserving the local traditional elements. In Muckbang discourse, the eating style often stimulates the senses of users with amplified sounds, challenging them to overeat, binging, and eating alone or in pairs. Depending on the type of eating, Iranian Muckbangs include eating with amplified sound, overeating, and fast eating challenges, often performed in person or in pairs. Finally, Cookbang discourse in Iran includes selecting and preparing food from foreign countries, especially East Asia, depending on their origins, communicating current and modern fast food in line with McDonald's global trends, and finally recontextualizing the recipes of traditional Iranian foods based on historical narratives. Keywords: Muckbang, Cookbang, Hallyu Korean wave, social network marketing, food cultural system, Iran. Intruduction Eating is practiced not only to fulfil biological needs and to be nourished, but also to be involved in a social activity (Choe, 2021: 137; Beeman, 2014; Kerner et al., 2015). In most cultures, eating together is considered a valued activity. In Korean culture, "loneliness" means "without anyone" (Choe et al., 2015; Kim, 2018). With this in mind, albeit many young Koreans live alone and independently, they have used digital technology innovatively to meet the need for communal eating (Choe, 2019). The importance of the collective act of eating in traditional Korean culture has led to the emergence of the Muckbang discourse in cyberspace. Muckbang was created with an aim to preserve the sense of collective eating in an online forum, so that the new generation, who are forced to live a modern lifestyle, would not suffer emotional damage. To put it more clearly, Muckbang is a new method of online social activity to satisfy the need for collective eating (Choe et al., 2015). Based on this, Muckbang is a type of digital commensality- collective eating - where a person eats in the presence other users (Beeman, 2014; Eleftheriou-Smith, 2017). Then all viewers share their views and ideas to start an online interaction in a live virtual space. The Hallyu trend was first introduced in 2010 by Muckbang presenters and on the Korean live video platform known as Africa TV. Since then, It has widely and globally spread to other areas across the world over time (Kim, 2018). This new form of Muckbang motivates the sensory stimulation of viewers. Interestingly, it is known as "food porn" in Western cultures with visual representations of food and hearing food sounds (Song, 2023). The identification of the strategic aspects of Muckbang discourse, as a new genre of influential marketing in the cultural or creative industries (Yu, 2022), is spreading across the globe through social networks (Khamis et al., 2017: 191-208). According to De Veirman et. al., (2017: 798-824), Muckbang has also provided a platform for more intimate relationships with consumers. This has not only increased brand identity awareness and professional brand equity building, but also has created a comfortable understanding of brand identity among loyal and potential customers (De Veirman et al., 2017). Over time, with the interactive capabilities of the social network improved, the Muckbang discourse, as an essential part of the Korean Hallyu wave (Chu, 2018), has not only found the possibility of transformation and continuous life, but also has grown with flexibility and the change of its original form to permeate to different cultures in different ways. In constant interaction with global users, this strategic trend in modern marketing, has either led to a change in their attitude or to overcome non-native opponents in a conservative and flexible way and try to gain more credibility. In today's Iran, grounded upon the processes of globalization, the Korean Hallyu wave has on the one hand spread in virtual spaces and led to the creation of value in the process of interacting with users and on the other hand contributed to the restoration of the Korean cultural system. Changing the cultural codes of Iranian food, this mysterious current has prepared the ground for the formation of a new wave with a constructed identity that has adopted elements from Iranian food system. Presenting the influential aspects of this current in the local food system has undoubtedly led us to discover the hidden or at least implicit layers of this current in Iran. In this context, we intend to analyze the discourse of this current from the emergence of Korean Hallyu wave to the spread of global Muckbang wave to the localized Muckbang in Iran. On this basis, we will try to answer the following question: "How does the Korean Hallyu wave represent the indigenous Iranian Muckbang food culture system in the process of co-creating the value of Iranian food tokens?" The structure of the paper is as follows: First, we will overview the current literature on the subject. Second, we will outline the research methodology. Third, we will embark upon analyzing the Muckbang and Cookbang flow. Finally, we will discuss and conclude the findings. Materials and Methods The data for the present research is collected using documentary method. Our data mainly come form multiple resources of Muckbang on social networks, extending from May 2022 to April 2023.Thus said, firstly, through browsing the Instagram pages of Muckbang-cookbang, we randomly examined more than 350 posts to check for their appropriacy with our research objectives. With regard to the discourse of Muckbang-cookbang as an observable recurring code - showing higher degree of spontaneity and creativity-, we purposefully opted for one movie for Muckbang and another for Cookbang to represent the cultural systems of Iranian food. Taking into account the levels of interactive meaning-making, the sample is studied using an integrated corpus-based model examining the meaning-making processes of brand discourse in the value-creation process. The expression level includes the possible structures of the social network for systematic meaning-making. The content level describes the meaning-making procedures of the social network discourse based on the levels of inter- and intra-semiotics. At the context level, the re-semiotization of non-textual elements considered. At the level of user interaction, users' comments or written conversations on the Muckbang-cookbang discourse are examined. Creation of brand value Expression of brand value Co-occurance situational discourse Nonuccurance situational context Context of culture (socio-cultural semosphere; cultura l) values) Discourse of context Interpretation of brand value Muckbang discourse Co-creation of brand value user's surface context surface content surface expression surface Figure 1- An overview of the integrated research model Taken together, these functional perspectives comprise a powerful toolkit for doing a socially relevant, multimodal discourse analysis. After the research corpus is studied using the adopted analytical research model, the descriptive statistical methods will be applied to shed light on a number of issues or problem areas in the integrated model. Discussion of Results and Conclusions The Muckbang-Cookbang movement in Iran has mysteriously resulted in cultural structures adopted both from Korean origins and through global trends. In this context, the influencer, relying on his/her credibility, presents the value of the advertised brand with the help of Mockbank. The represented value of the brand in Muckbang's discourse was to show the provocative effect of foods that sometimes conflict with the local culture and, in some cases, to reweave the local cultural elements in conjunction with the Korean Hallyu craze to encourage followers to accept the cultural elements of the global Hallyu trend. In the process of value creation, the meaning of the brand discourse was examined based on the styles of eating and consuming. Likewise, the value creation process of and the Cookbang discourse was grounded upon on food preparation (Barthes, 1967; Danesi, 2006) and (Sujudi, 2008; Agha Ebrahimi, 2015). In relation to the type of Muckbang foods (Yun et al., 2020; Kim et al., 2016), it was found that the flow of native Iranian Muckbang, unlike Korean and Chinese Muckbang, does not contain raw foods, living organisms, and any kinds of insects. It is often limited to some seafood, the most important of which are octopus, crab and lobster. In Iranian Muckbangs, the consumption of foods such as octopus, crab, and calamari has led to a hegemonic interaction; in this interaction, Mookbanker encourages his followers to eat unfamiliar and non-native foods through emotional stimulation. After continuing the written conversation about eating such non-Iranian foods by users, their normalization begins by weakening the local cultural structures and strengthening the elements of the global Hallyu wave to lead to the acceptance of this current among Iranian users. In line with the global trend of eating foods with a flavor enhancement, Iranian muckbangers include very sour foods in addition to spicy Korean noodles. In addition to eating crispy crackers, Iranian muckbang also includes hot pots, dry bread, as well as traditional foods and even fresh vegetable products in some cases. In the context of how food is eaten in muckbangs, in line with the findings of (Yun et al., 2020; Haghbin and Monfard, in press), it was found that Iranian Muckbangs - in line with the global challenge to eat a lot of raw eggs or fried potatoes, soukhari chicken and similar things - are sometimes performed with a certain time record and a prize. In some cases, this challenge is contested by two people. Koreans hear sounds such as swallowing, chewing, sucking, slurping, gulping and slurping while eating. This is while most Iranian MucKbangs involve fried foods and macaroni, where the sound of crunchy food can be heard. Donad and in some cases chewing and swallowing sounds can be heard, which is not annoying. Finally, in addition to the findings of (Yun et al., 2020), it was found that Kukbang, which represents the preparation of food and its consumption in front of the user with a sense of intimacy and comfort, arouses emotions and creates pleasure related to food, which may lead to overconsumption and unhealthy eating. The trend of Cookbang in Iran is to select and cook Korean or national foods with reference to their origin and history, which often correspond to Iranian tastes. Cookbang also involves teaching practical and contemporary methods for traditional Iranian foods and similar products, which is accompanied by the revival of historical narratives and, in some cases, myths. In this way, the adoption of the Korean wave of Hallyu occurs along with the reconstruction of historical elements in the form of narratives, indicating the influence of the collective action of online eating in the lower strata of Iranian culture.
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