نظری بر لباس کودکان اشراف در عصر ناصرالدین شاه قاجار
آرشیو
چکیده
لباس کودکان در گذر ادوار تاریخی، کمتر محل بررسی بوده است. به واقع اهم مطالعات تاریخ پوشاک، بر انواع لباس زنانه و مردانه تمرکز دارد به طوریکه به نظر می رسد از ذکر ظرایف پوشش کودکانه پرهیز شده است. پژوهش حاضر می کوشد چگونگی پوشاک کودکان اشراف قاجاری را در دوره ناصری محل بررسی قرار دهد و برای دستیافتن به این هدف، به اسناد مصور و مکتوب تاریخی رجوع دارد. با این نگاه، پرسش آن است: «خصایص لباس کودکان اشراف در دوره ناصرالدین شاه قاجار در مقایسه با پوشاک بزرگسالان آن عصر، چگونه تعریف و تبیین می شود؟» این مقاله، به شیوه توصیفی تحلیلی و با رویکرد تاریخی نسبت به نمونه گیری احتمالی طبقه بندی شده در پوشش کودکان قاجاری (در سه بازه نوزادی، خردسالی و نونهالی) در دو جنسیت دختر و پسر اقدام نمود. نتیجه پژوهش نشان داد که لباس کودکان درباری عصر ناصری، در فرم، الگو، رنگ، جنسیت، طرح، نقش و تزیینات از پوشاک بزرگسالان تبعیت دارد تا اندازه ای که این امر حتی در پوشش عروسک های ایشان نیز دنبال شده است. البته در لباس نوزادی، قنداق و ملحقات آن افزون بر پوشش معمول بزرگسالی بود و چه بسا لباس پسران شبیه به دختران تهیه می شد که آنها هم از پارچه های رایج بود و تمایز ویژه ای در گزینش جنسیت پارچه وجود نداشت. در خردسالی، پوشش دختران و پسران به ترتیب و به طور تقریبی از لباس اندرونی زنانه و لباس مردانه پیروی می کرد؛ در نونهالی برای پسران شیوه پیشین دنبال می شد و برای دختران، افزون بر تکمیل جامه اندرونی، اجزاء پوشش بیرونی زنانه به ویژه چادر و روبنده جنبه رسمی می یافت و وجوه تزیینی انواع لباس اندرونی فزونی می گرفت.A Survey on the Aristocratic Children’s Clothing During Naser al-Din Shah Qajar Era
Children’s clothing during historical periods has rarely been studied. The most significant studies on the history of clothing focus on women’s and men’s clothing, as if avoiding mentioning the subtleties of children’s outfits. This study examines the clothing of aristocratic children of the Qajar dynasty during Naser al-Din Shah Qajar (‘Naseri’) era using illustrated historical records. This brings us to the research question, “What defined and explained the characteristics of aristocratic children’s clothing, as opposed to the adults clothing, during that period?” The research method is developmental research using library research methodology. Our statistical population consisted of twenty-one pictures, selected using stratified random sampling, including children’s clothing of boys and girls. This period was chosen because it offered photographic evidence supporting the study’s hypotheses based on written sources alone. Corresponding to a traditional classification of childhood stages, the children’s clothing in the Qajar period in Iran can be divided into three categories, infant clothing, preschooler clothing (for children under 6), and middle childhood clothing (for girls of 6–9 and boys of 6–15 years age). Infant clothing was unisex and consisted of a headscarf known as the lachak, a hat, a shirt, pants, a jacket, a bib, a headband, forearm wraps, a chest wrap, an abdomen wrap, and a swaddle blanket that came with a cover and a strap. These items were similar to adult garments in material, color, and pattern. Preschooler clothing for boys closely resembled men’s outfits in form and pattern, as well as other items: not only did both comprise a hat, a shirt, pants, a jacket (which came in two varieties: qaba and sardari/kamarchin), socks, and shoes, they also included accessories such as a crown or a crown-hat (for princes) and even a decorative dagger (for photo portraits). Male preschooler hats mimicked those of adult men, only less elaborate. In upper-class families, girls wore the same garments in the andaruni (the private quarters of Qajar homes) as adult women: a lachak, a shirt, a skirt, pants, a jacket known as the arkhalig or shapkin, and socks. The women of Naser al-Din Shah’s harem were the trendsetters for female preschoolers from royal and aristocratic families, who followed the suit, for instance, when the harem women adopted shorter skirts and left pants for leggings. Given that, the girls’ clothes emulated that of women in form. It was only natural for them to be similar in color, pattern, material, and even decoration. Floral-patterned chadors were the only andaruni garments that female preschoolers wore less commonly than middle childhood girls, who always wore chadors and niqabs over their clothes in public. As for boys’ headwear, hats were preferred to turbans for being easier to handle and looking more stylish. The results showed that during the Naseri era, the children’s clothing in the royal court followed adults’ clothing in form, pattern, color, gender, design, motifs, and ornaments, even for the children’s dolls’ clothing. Naturally, swaddle and its accessories were added to the usual adults’ outfits in infants’ clothing. Boys’ and girls’ clothing were from similar standard fabrics. No particular gender preference existed in the choice of fabrics. Boys’ and girls’ clothing in preschoolers almost followed the inner-house (andaruni) clothing of men and women, respectively. During middle childhood, boys’ clothing followed the same pattern. In girls’ clothing, feminine outfit pieces became official outer garments out of the house. In contrast, complementary inner-house clothing pieces were added to their wardrobes, and the decorative aspects of various inner-house clothes increased.
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